It’s surprising to learn what thrives in the unique habitats of north-west Norfolk.

This walk takes in the River Hun, one of Norfolk’s nine mineral rich chalk streams, running from Hunstanton Park to Holme-next-the-Sea. And on to Ringstead Downs, the country’s largest chalk grassland, a Site of Special Scientific Interest. Scented with summer rock rose and wild thyme, it’s also home to the delightfully named squincywort. The chalk is exposed on the Downs’ wooded southern edge, at Chalkpit Plantation, a locally run community nature reserve.

Once, locals with very different intentions scurried through these rural habitats. Ruthless smuggler gangs! And, by fear or favour, they had plenty of help. When 3 smugglers were tried for murder at Thetford Assizes in 1785, all were acquitted. At the retrial, all were acquitted again. It seemed no Norfolk jury would ever convict free traders!

But there were victims. Look for two 1784 graves at St Mary’s Church in Old Hunstanton. One faded inscription reads ‘Here be the mangled remains of poor William Green an Honest Officer of Government who in the faithful discharge of his duty was inhumanely murdered by a gang of smugglers in this parish.’ Close by lies William Webb, a soldier of the Light Dragoons, shot during the same incident.

Call into Ringstead’s fabulous award-winning pub, ‘The Gin Trap’. Once describing a gamekeeper’s spring-loaded device, the name now has a double meaning. Must be quite a tonic for the relieved rabbits of Ringstead Downs.